As a DIY-hard crafter, I have a pretty impressive collection of glues. My glue stash is so sizable that I have devoted an entire drawer in my plastic 3-drawer rolling cart to "Adhesives." This includes tape (of which I have the masking, the duct, the sport, and the packing varieties), and I've also thrown in a few other bottles of household fluids there because they don't fit into a better category—WD-40 (the exact opposite of an adhesive) and foam insulation. But the glues! I have become quite a connoisseur of glues over the years, and today, I thought I'd share what I've learned with those a little newer to the gluing game.
Hot glue
Probably
the first glue I fell in love with (yes, we of the more geeky persuasion do fall in love with glues), hot glue first hit my radar at the
young age of 7 or 8 thanks to my Girl Scout troop leaders. My fair share of
finger burns later (I can't believe they trusted us with such a
dangerous weapon in 3rd grade!), I was hooked. My mom purchased a hot
glue gun for the family, and it has been in my arsenal ever since! Hot
glue is useful when you want to glue two things together and have
the glue set quickly. Because it is bulky and messy, however, it is not
so great for gluing small pieces, or for use in places that
will get a lot of scrutiny. It also fails to bond to the vast
majority of materials, (including pretty much all non-porous ones), so
any attachment you create with hot glue should be considered more or
less temporary. I like to use hot glue for quick-and-dirty
crafting—assembling Halloween costumes, for example. It's also
great for when you need a big blobby lump of glue, to
actually form an architectural element in your project.Tacky Glue
Another crafter's standby, Aleene's Tacky Glue is tried and true
for many applications. Like hot glue, it works well only on porous
materials. Unlike hot glue, it takes a lot longer to set, but it can be
applied with much greater precision. The "Tacky" in its name is its
greatest strength—because it's a thicker glue, the items you are gluing
are more likely to stay in position until the glue has set...and once it
has, it forms a waterproof bond. I use Tacky glue mostly for projects
involving fabric (it's not a fabric glue, but it works just as well).Epoxy
Around the time I graduated from college, I learned, from a friend who built
model airplanes, that epoxy was the glue of choice
if you really wanted to glue two things together and have them stick.
Especially if the two somethings were somethings like metal. At first, I
was a little intimidated by epoxy, because you have to actually mix a
hardener with the adhesive, but that actually makes epoxy an ideal glue
to have around, because it will never dry up in the bottle! Epoxy's pros
are that I've never found any two substances it couldn't bond, and it's
tough and dries hard. Its cons are that it's a little inconvenient to
use, in that you have to mix it in a separate container before you can
use it, and if your mixture ratio is a little off, you will get glue
that never hardens. I use epoxy for repairing metal jewelry, and as a
replacement filler for molded plastic (it's currently holding the wheel
of my office chair into its broken socket, and I've also used it as a replacement for the heel tip on oddly shaped shoe heels).Gorilla Glue
When I worked at the grocery store, my colleagues swore
by Gorilla Glue, which I had never heard of up until that point. When I
finally did give it a try, I was underwhelmed, although it does have its
uses. Gorilla glue's greatest strength is also its greatest weakness—as
it cures, it foams up, expanding into any cracks it's been placed into.
This is great when you need to fill gaps, but it's terrible for
precision applications. My friend's mom once used it to repair a broken
china figurine of mine—it came back with brownish foam protruding from
all the cracks. I also find Gorilla glue to be less strong than
some glues—do not use it in places that will be subject to a lot of
torque. What is it good for? Large-area applications. I am currently
using it around the house to hold pieces of wood to various other
surfaces.Spray Adhesive
You've seen spray adhesive come up numerous times in my other blog—I've used it to hold up my socks as well as to make various paper and fabric
crafts. In all those projects, I was using an old can of spray adhesive
that I'd had since graduate school, where we were advised to use the
substance to affix our design samples to mat board for presentation. So I
can thank my master's degree for my knowledge of the strengths of spray
adhesive: it is excellent for attaching one large flat, flexible
surface to another one. Spray adhesive forms a thin, even coat that is
unlikely to bleed unless you really overdo it. Objects with spray
adhesive on them can usually be repositioned a couple of times before
the glue loses its tack. But a big downside of this glue is that it is
messy! It's hard to keep the aerosolized glue from settling onto
everything in the vicinity (my design school actually had a gluing room,
which was sticky from floor to ceiling due to all the overspray!), so
when my last can of spray adhesive ran out, I haven't been in a hurry to
replace it. I think I'm going to settle for rubber cement in the
future.
Rubber Cement
My first encounter with rubber cement was when my mom created her influential dining table Halloween costume.
She used rubber cement to affix plastic utensils to her tablecloth, and
I was amazed, because up until that time, my experience of glue was
limited to Elmer's School Glue, which as we all know, does next
to nothing. Rubber cement is pretty awesome because it retains a degree
of stickiness even after it dries. It dries faster than white glue, and
because it comes with a brush, it can be applied in a thinner layer. I
prefer rubber cement for all my paper-attaching needs, and I'm
experimenting with using it to hold my clothes up (temporary verdict: it
doesn't work as well as spray adhesive, but it is easier to remove from
your skin.)E6000
I
can thank Pinterest for introducing me to this second-newest addition to my Glue Gallery. All the crafters who post
tutorials involving attaching rhinestones to anything always recommend
using E6000 glue for the purpose. If you don't know much about
rhinestones, generally they have a very smooth shiny back which can be
quite hard to stick to anything. So, intrigued, I bought a tube of the
stuff. It says right on the label that it's industrial-strength, which
sounds pretty good to me. I haven't had a lot of opportunity to use
E6000 for very many applications, but so far I've reattached a couple of
shoe soles with it, and they haven't come apart yet.5-Second-Fix
Normally, I'd be the last person to purchase something emblazoned
with an "As Seen on TV" label, but recently I made an order that needed a
few more items to qualify for free shipping, and the 5-Second-Fix was a
pretty low price, so I threw a tube of the stuff into my virtual cart.
So far, I can't say I regret my purchase. It seems to work the same way
as dental fillers do (it might even be the same substance my
orthodontist used to attach my braces!)—the glue remains liquid until
you blast it with the attached UV light, and then it takes only 5
seconds to cure. For the limited amount of time I've had to try it, I
have to say this glue is pretty awesome. Like hot
glue, it dries fast, but unlike hot glue, it only dries when you're
ready to dry it. Like epoxy, it bonds to a wide variety of materials and
seems to form a strong, clear bond, but unlike epoxy, you don't have to
pre-mix it and can use an infinitesimally small amount right out of the
tube. My first and only use of this glue was to repair and reconstruct a
couple of pairs of earrings, for which it worked like a charm—until the pair I repaired fell on the floor a week later and broke in the same spot... but I'll give the glue the benefit of a doubt—I might have just not applied it adequately. There are apparently lots of similar products on the market,
so when it comes time to replace my 5SF, I might just look for a cheap
generic.Other options
I have other glues in my collection as well, but they are for really limited uses, but here's a quick rundown:
- Elmer's glue stick (good for almost nothing except temporary bonds of flat porous materials like paper and fabric)
- School glue (being water-soluble even when dry, it's only good for temporarily bonding things that you later want to wash out. I got it to use as a substitute for wax-resist in fabric dyeing, but haven't actually tried that yet)
- Temporary Fabric glue (When sewing, you can use it for basting instead of pins, which fall out, or a basting stitch, which my sewing machine doesn't have. Fabric glue is a little tackier than traditional white glue, so it attaches things more quickly and securely)
